Hello Everyone, How are you ? Today We are Learn About How to Growing Garlic Cloves .Garlic Growing is easy and produces numerous bulbs after a long growing season. It is frost tolerant. Beyond its intense flavor and culinary uses, Garlic has been used for centuries as a home remedy.Not only is it easy to grow, but it’s also a beautiful addition to your garden. Here’s our step-by-step guide.
Where To Plant Garlic:-
Garlic should be planted in a spot not recently used for garlic or alternative plants from the onion family. Don’t plant garlic in areas wherever water will collect around the roots, inflicting them to rot or become morbid. Fall is that the time for planting. Every clove (the sections of the bulb) can manufacture a replacement bulb, and therefore the largest cloves typically yield the largest bulbs. To urge the cloves off to a robust begin and defend them from plant diseases, soak them in a jar of water containing a heaping tablespoon of bicarbonate of soda and a tablespoon of liquid algae for a couple of hours before planting.
Garlic will tolerate some shade but prefers full sun. While I’ve seen cloves sprout in gravel pits, garlic responds best in well-drained, fertile, loamy soil amended with lots of organic matter. Raised beds are ideal, except in very dry regions. Garlic should be planted in a fertile, well-drained soil. A raised bed works very well. Remove stones from the top 6 inches of soil. Work several inches of compost or well-rotted manure into the bed, along with 10-10-10 fertilizer.
Separate cloves. Space the cloves 4-6″ apart. Rows should be spaced one foot apart. The cloves should be planted with the pointed end up and the blunt end down. Push each clove 1-2″ into the ground, firm the soil around it, and water the bed if it is dry. Fall is the time for planting. Each clove (the sections of the bulb) will produce a new bulb, and the largest cloves yield the biggest bulbs. To get the cloves off to a strong start and protect them from fungal diseases, soak them in a jar of water containing a heaping tablespoon of baking soda and a tablespoon of liquid seaweed for a few hours before planting.
Place cloves in a hole or furrow with the flat or root-end down and pointed end up, with each tip 2 inches beneath the soil. Set the cloves about 6 to 8 inches apart. Top the soil with 6 inches of mulch, such as straw or dried grass clippings mixed with leaves. You’ll see shoots start growing right through the mulch in 4 to 8 weeks, depending on your weather and the variety you’ve planted. They stop growing during winter, then start again in spring. Leave the mulch in place until spring; it conserves moisture and suppresses weeds (garlic competes poorly with weeds).
By mid-June, your garlic will begin sprouting purple tops that curl as they mature and ultimately straighten out into long spiky tendrils. These savory stalks, known as scapes, should be removed to encourage larger, more efficient bulb growth. However, before adding severed scapes to the compost pile, try incorporating their mild garlic flavor into a delicious scape pesto, scape dip, or scape soup.
After planting lay down a protective mulch of straw, chopped leaves or grass clippings. In cold-winter regions, the mulch should be approximately 4 inches thick. Mulch will help to prevent the garlic roots from being heaved out of the ground by alternate freezing and thawing. A light application of mulch is useful in milder climates to control the growth of winter weeds.
Harvesting and storage:
You will harvest the garlic when most of the leaves have turned brown. This usually occurs in mid-July to early August, depending on your climate. At this time you may dig the bulbs up, being careful not to bruise them. If the bulbs are left in the ground too long, they may separate and will not store well. Lay the garlic plants out to dry for 2 or 3 weeks in a shady area with good air circulation. Be sure to bring the garlic plants in if rain is forecasted for your area. When the roots feel brittle and dry, rub them off, along with any loose dirt. Do not get the bulbs wet or break them apart, or the plants won’t last as long.
Either tie the garlic in bunches, braid the leaves, or cut the stem a few inches above the bulb. Hang the braids and groups or store the loose bulbs on screens or slatted shelves in a cool, airy location. You may want to set aside some of the largest bulbs for replanting in the fall.During the winter months, you should check your stored garlic bulbs often, and promptly use any that show signs of sprouting.Each set (bulb) is made up of several sections called cloves, held together by a thin, papery covering. Before planting, break cloves apart.
Plant cloves in mid-autumn in a sunny location with fertile, well-drained soil. Set cloves root side down 4-6″ apart in rows 1-1/2 to 2″ apart, and cover with 1-2″ of fine soil. In the North, put down 6″ of mulch for winter protection. Garlic may begin growth late in fall or early in spring.
Plant cloves as early in spring as soil can be worked, about the same time as onion sets. Spring planted garlic should be put in the ground in the same manner as in the Fall.
Garlic Harvesting and storage: –
In late summer, bend over tops to hasten yellowing and drying of tops. Then pull up the garlic plants and allow them to dry in the sun a few hours. Spread out in a well-ventilated place until tops are thoroughly dry (2-3 weeks). Cut tops off 1-2″ above garlic bulbs, or Braid tops together into strings. Store loose bulbs in a dry, cool, airy place in baskets; hang garlic strings.
When your garlic is thoroughly dry, trim the roots, taking care not to knock off the outer skin. Cut off the stalks about 1½ inches above the bulb if you plan to keep the garlic in bags. Recycled mesh onion bags are perfect for storage.